It's true that you can travel the world through your kitchen. But your trip could be as safe as visiting the Wisconsin Dells or as adventuresome as horseback riding in Mongolia, depending on how far you're willing to go. One of the benefits of our rapidly shrinking world is the pleasure of tasting butter from Italy with a rich nutiness that could only come from the cows that also produce Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Or being able to indulge in artisanal gelato, handmade in Philadelphia, that bursts with the intense flavor of locally grown fruits and herbs. Bouffe owner Libby Bonahoom is on a continual quest to find truly special foods like these that come with their own stories and experiences. What started as a personal search for foods that she enjoyed in her travels and wanted to bring back to Chicago has grown into a thriving business in Lincoln Square. "My goal is to buy things you've never seen before," explains Libby. "Bouffe offers a mixture of items that I couldn't find in any store here, along with new items that I search for at trade shows and through importers." One thing is for sure—the flavors at Bouffe go far beyond vanilla.
Bouffe is a small, European-style food shop that opened in Lincoln Square in August 2005. Visitors are transported to an experience that could just as well take place in a country village in France. One of the first things you see is a quote painted on the wall. It's from the author Peter Mayle, known for his culinary explorations of the south of France: "The world and its problems can be dealt with later on, but for the moment, la bouffe takes priority and contentment hangs in the air." Taking the time to savor the simple flavors in life is what's important here. Shelves are lined with goods that could be works of art. There's a deli counter filled with meats and cheeses, as well as several back coolers filled with dairy products, meats and various frozen items.
"The name 'Bouffe' means 'food' in French slang," says Libby. "I happened to be reading a Peter Mayle book at the time and came upon that quote." It's an appropriate name since the shop is such an eclectic mix of items. "There's a definite Mediterranean influence, but I also buy what I like," says Libby. "I look for items that look good, because I believe that you can get just as much joy from how an item is packaged." There are some definite things in common among all of the items Bouffe sells. Everything is a bit unexpected. Black cherry preserves are flavored with licorice. Honey is infused with truffle oil. Mustard is sold in a bucket. This is definitely "slow food." These are handmade items that are not mass distributed, so you won't be able to get them at the local supermarket. "I look for foods that are all natural and contain no preservatives," says Libby. "You really have to look at gourmet foods for this. It's amazing how many of them do have preservatives." And you don't have to be a gourmet chef to enjoy what's there. Libby chooses items that you can pull together to make an easy dinner.
So how did a former high school French teacher and translator for an ad agency open a store like Bouffe? The answer comes, in part, from her family background. "My dad owns a meat company in Michigan," she explains. "I grew up in the food world." She realized her love for working in a retail setting when she worked in a local coffee shop throughout high school. As a college student, she spent a year studying overseas in Paris, which was enough to spark her love for French cuisine. Libby's experience of living in Europe stayed with her and was part of her vision to open a specialty food shop like the ones she had patronized there. When she considered a location for her new business, Lincoln Square made sense. "I wanted to be in an established, yet ever-changing area," she says. "This is a great area. There aren't very many grocery stores around and there are a lot of people who appreciate good food."
 Libby still travels abroad every couple years, although now her trips are built around looking for new products to carry in her store. "It's harder than you think to bring new items here," says Libby. "I don't have an importer's license, so I work with a lot of great importers. You still have to pick and choose carefully what to carry." For a small shop, Bouffe offers a wide variety of items, from a small selection of non-edibles like tableware and cookbooks, to pastas, sauces, seasonings, condiments, meats, and sweets. Around the shop hang little notes with tips about how to serve or enjoy various items. For a twist on the ordinary, Bouffe offers some unusual varieties of salt. "Salt is the new buzz of the cooking world right now," says Libby. "There are just so many different wonderful types of salt." Most are sea salts, some are mixed with herbs, and there's even a smoked variety. Another product she's excited about is the Scarpetta pasta sauce, which is made by hand in small batches in Boston. "It's best jar of sauce I've ever had," Libby insists. In the meat cooler, you'll find lamb chops, beef tenderloin and strip steaks, along with cured meats for sandwiches in the deli counter. Several European butters are available, including Delitia butter, which is made from Parmigiano Reggiano cream. For after dinner, you can serve Capogiro Gelato—the one made by hand in Philadelphia featuring creative flavors like rosemary honey goat's milk, burnt almond, and Meyer lemon with vodka. Other notable sweets include Barry's Brownies, recently celebrated by Time Out Chicago for their fudgy decadence.
And of course, there's cheese. A substantial portion of Bouffe is devoted to fine cheeses and things that go well with them, such as fresh bread from Red Hen, crackers, spreads, and olives. "I took a class in New York all about cheese at the Artisanal Cheese Center," Libby says. "It was founded by Terrance Brennan, who is a chef of two restaurants there. We tasted cow milk, sheep milk, goat milk and yogurt made from all three." She also plans to visit some of the cheesemakers who are her suppliers. Libby is quite passionate about cheese, and admits that she favors those from France. But she finds something to love in all of the varieties she keeps in the shop. Some favorites include Langres, a soft French cheese with a dimple in the top that you can pour Champagne into. An American favorite is the Smoky Blue that comes from Rogue Creamery in Oregon. "It's smoked over hazelnut shells and is just delicious," she explains. "It tastes just like bacon." An Italian contender is the Ubriaco al Prosecco, which is soaked in the must from the local Prosecco vineyards.
Bouffe caters to those who want ready-made options just as much as it does to those who love to cook. "Many of our customers come in when they're bringing items to someone's house for a party or when they're entertaining," explains Libby. She and her staff love making recommendations for food pairings based on their customers' tastes. Bouffe is also a perfect stop on the way to Ravinia. Give them a call if you're interested in ordering a cheese tray or a food basket for an event. Libby will also work with you to make a special order. If there is something you want and just can't find, ask and she will try to track it down for you. Those who need a gift for a foodie friend, take note: Bouffe makes custom gift baskets and also offers gift cards. During the day, you can stop in for a freshly made sandwich, which you can enjoy with a natural soda from Fizzy Lizzy. "We make about one to two special sandwiches a day, depending on the ingredients we have in," explains Libby. Although she brings together food from all over the world, Libby is a strong believer in keeping it local. She's a member of Local First Chicago, which is a group that supports independent businesses throughout the city. "One of the reasons why I opened was to preserve the unique character that small businesses give the city." Bouffe has definitely brought the neighborhood good taste by passing its notable flavors on to our palates.
Bouffe
2312 West Leland Avenue
Chicago, IL 60625
773.784.2314
www.provenancefoodandwine.com
Hours:
Tuesday - Friday 11:00am - 7:00pm
Saturday 11:00am - 6:00pm
Sunday 12:00pm - 5:00pm
Monday Closed
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